What is Bayon temple and why is it famous?
Bayon is a late 12th-century temple at the exact center of Angkor Thom, the last great capital of the Khmer Empire. Built by King Jayavarman VII, it is famous for approximately 200 enormous stone faces carved onto its 37 surviving towers — serene, slightly smiling faces that watch the four cardinal directions. Scholars debate whether they represent the Bodhisattva Avalokiteshvara or Jayavarman VII himself. Bayon also features 1.2 km of bas-reliefs depicting both epic battles and intimate everyday Khmer life — uniquely for Angkor, these show ordinary people: market vendors, fishermen, children playing.
- Location: Dead center of Angkor Thom, 4 km from Siem Reap, covered by Angkor Pass
- Built c. 1181–1220 CE by Jayavarman VII as a Mahayana Buddhist state temple
- ~200 surviving stone faces (originally 216) across 37 towers
- 1.2 km of bas-reliefs showing both military campaigns and daily life
- Best visited early morning (7–9 AM) for face photography in warm light
History: Jayavarman VII and the Building of Bayon
Jayavarman VII (reigned 1181–1218 CE) came to power after a period of devastating crisis: the Cham empire had invaded Angkor from the sea via the Tonle Sap Lake in 1177, sacking the capital and killing the king. Jayavarman VII, a senior prince who had lived in exile, returned and led the Khmer counterattack. When he finally drove the Chams out in 1181, he was already in his late fifties.
What followed was the most ambitious building campaign in Angkorian history. Jayavarman VII constructed Angkor Thom — a walled city of 9 square kilometers housing perhaps one million people — along with Ta Prohm, Preah Khan, Banteay Kdei, and dozens of hospitals and rest houses along royal roads. Bayon was his state temple at the geometric and spiritual center of this vast city.
Unlike his predecessors who favored Hinduism, Jayavarman VII was a devout Mahayana Buddhist. Bayon reflects this — its faces are believed to be Avalokiteshvara, and its upper level contained a central Buddha image (later removed and replaced with a Hindu linga by his successor Jayavarman VIII, who sought to reverse Buddhist influence). In the 14th–15th century, Cambodia's conversion to Theravada Buddhism restored Buddhist devotion to the site, which continues to this day.
Three Religious Transformations
Bayon has passed through three religious phases: (1) Mahayana Buddhist under Jayavarman VII; (2) Hindu under Jayavarman VIII, who defaced many Buddhist images and replaced the central shrine; (3) Theravada Buddhist from the 14th century to the present. This explains why you'll see Buddhist offerings and monks at an architecturally complex site showing signs of deliberate damage to earlier carvings.
The Enigmatic Smiling Faces
The face towers of Bayon are among the most recognizable images in Southeast Asian art. Each tower originally bore four faces oriented to the cardinal directions. The faces share a distinctive style: broad, flat nose; thick lips turned slightly upward; heavy eyelids that give an expression of serene inward contemplation — neither joyful nor sorrowful.
The identity of the faces has generated more academic debate than almost any other question in Angkor studies. Two main theories compete:
Theory 1: Avalokiteshvara
The Bodhisattva of Compassion in Mahayana Buddhism, depicted looking in all four directions simultaneously to watch over all beings. The number 54 (towers) and 216 (faces) have significance in Buddhist cosmology. This is the majority scholarly view.
Theory 2: Jayavarman VII Himself
Portrait statues of Jayavarman VII show strikingly similar facial features to the tower faces. The king may have had himself depicted as or merged with Avalokiteshvara — a "god-king" concept adapted from his Buddhist devotion. The theories are not mutually exclusive.
The Three-Level Temple Structure
Bayon is a temple mountain — its three levels represent a cosmological hierarchy rising from the human world to the divine realm. Unlike Angkor Wat's clear axial structure, Bayon's plan is more organic, having been modified repeatedly during and after Jayavarman VII's reign.
The outer gallery contains the famous bas-reliefs — 1.2 km of carved panels at eye height. This level was accessible to ordinary people and depicts worldly subjects: military campaigns, daily life, market scenes. The eastern and western galleries are the best preserved.
An intermediate gallery with additional bas-reliefs of a more religious character. The transition from the worldly outer gallery to the divine upper terrace. Some restoration work is ongoing at this level.
The face tower zone — crowded with towers, narrow passages, and the central sanctuary. This is where the famous faces are most densely clustered. Restricted to those who can navigate steep original stone steps. The narrow corridors create intimate, dramatic encounters with individual faces.
The Bas-Reliefs: 1.2 km of Carved History
Bayon's bas-reliefs are exceptional even within the already extraordinary context of Angkorian carving. Unlike Angkor Wat's reliefs (which focus on Hindu mythology and royal battles), Bayon's outer gallery devotes substantial space to ordinary Khmer life — scenes of such intimacy and humor that they feel remarkably modern.
Southern Gallery — East Wing: Khmer Army March
Soldiers march in formation accompanied by musicians and generals on elephants. Khmer infantrymen carry lances; commanders ride war elephants. Considered one of the finest military procession carvings in the Angkor complex.
Southern Gallery — West Wing: Naval Battle of the Tonle Sap
Epic depiction of the 1177 Cham naval invasion via the Tonle Sap Lake. Cham soldiers are distinguishable by their distinctive headdresses shaped like lotus flowers. Includes crocodiles and fish beneath the boats.
Northern Gallery: Military Procession & Daily Life
Unusually intimate for Angkorian art — carvings show ordinary people selling food at markets, children playing, women nursing infants, cockfights, and festive celebrations. A rare window into 12th-century Khmer daily life.
Eastern Gallery: Battle Scenes & Celestial Beings
Combat scenes alternate with apsaras and divine figures. Several panels depict the aftermath of battle with the dead being cremated and the victorious Khmer receiving homage.
Photography Guide: Capturing the Faces
Bayon is one of the most photogenic temples in Asia. The key is light: the stone faces only come alive when directional light creates shadow in the carved features. Here are the best spots and times for memorable images.
Upper terrace — southeast corner
The sunlight enters from the east and illuminates the southern faces at a low angle, creating deep shadow definition in the carved features. This is the most photogenic window.
Central tower base — looking up
Stand directly beneath a face tower and shoot upward with a wide-angle lens. The converging verticals and massive scale of the faces become apparent.
Western entrance causeway — looking east
As the sun lowers, the main tower faces catch warm golden light. This is the classic "three faces at once" composition.
Northern gallery — interior
Overcast light is ideal for the bas-reliefs, eliminating harsh shadows that obscure detail. Bring a small LED panel or phone torch to illuminate dark interior carvings.
Second level face towers — close-up
Get as close as permitted and focus on a single face. The enigmatic smile (slightly upturned corners, half-closed eyes) rewards intimate framing. Vertical (portrait) orientation works best.
Sunrise vs Sunset at Bayon
Unlike Angkor Wat (famous for sunrise), Bayon can be spectacular at either end of the day. Sunrise illuminates the eastern faces; sunset warms the western faces. However, most visitors visit Bayon mid-morning after Angkor Wat sunrise, so there are actually fewer crowds at Bayon during sunset — making it a more contemplative and photographic experience.
Practical Visitor Information
Getting There
Distance: 4 km north of Siem Reap town center
Location: Center of Angkor Thom walled city
By tuk-tuk: $15–20/day including multiple temples
By bicycle: 20–30 min from town (pleasant ride)
By car: 10 min; recommended in hot season
Hours & Tickets
Opens: 7:30 AM daily
Closes: 5:30 PM daily
Ticket: Included in Angkor Pass
1-day pass: $37 USD
3-day pass: $62 USD (valid 10 days)
Do
- Visit early morning for best face photography
- Bring water and wear light, breathable clothing
- Walk the full outer gallery bas-relief circuit
- Hire a licensed guide for historical context
- Look closely at the bas-reliefs for everyday life scenes
Avoid
- Visiting 10 AM–2 PM (hottest, flattest light)
- Touching or leaning on the stone faces
- Wearing revealing clothing (temple etiquette)
- Using flash inside bas-relief galleries
- Skipping the ground-level gallery for the upper terrace
Combining Bayon with Other Temples
Bayon sits within Angkor Thom, a walled city containing several other significant monuments. These combine naturally into a half-day circuit, easily combined with Angkor Wat and Ta Prohm for a full day.
Angkor Wat
2 km south of Angkor Thom south gate. Visit for sunrise (5:30 AM), then proceed north to Angkor Thom and Bayon mid-morning.
GuideTa Prohm
The "Tomb Raider temple" — jungle trees growing through ruins. 3 km east of Bayon. Ideal for late morning after Angkor Wat and Bayon.
GuideAngkor Thom Gateways
Five monumental gates with their own face towers and causeway lined by gods and demons. The South Gate is the most impressive — pass through it to reach Bayon.
GuideFrequently Asked Questions
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