Takeo Attractions
Before Angkor Wat, before the Khmer Empire, there was Funan—and its traces survive in Takeo province. From the 6th-century towers of Phnom Da to the hilltop sanctuary of Phnom Chisor, Takeo holds some of Cambodia's oldest and least-visited archaeological treasures.
Overview
Takeo province is sometimes called the "cradle of Cambodian civilization." The ancient capital of Angkor Borei, located in the southern part of the province near the Vietnamese border, was a major center of the Funan kingdom—Southeast Asia's earliest known Indianized state, flourishing from the 1st to 6th centuries CE. The temples and artifacts here predate Angkor Wat by over 500 years.
For travelers who have already explored the Angkor complex, Takeo offers a fascinating glimpse at what came before. The province's attractions are spread across two areas: the northern temples of Phnom Chisor and Tonle Bati (accessible as day trips from Phnom Penh) and the southern archaeological zone of Angkor Borei and Phnom Da (requiring a deeper journey into the province).
Phnom Da Temple
Phnom Da is Takeo's crown jewel and one of Cambodia's most historically significant temples. Dating to the 6th–7th century CE, this pre-Angkorian sanctuary sits atop a small hill near the ancient city of Angkor Borei. The temple was built during the transition from the Funan to the Chenla kingdoms, making it a crucial link in understanding the origins of Khmer civilization.
Getting There
During the wet season (July–November), the most memorable way to reach Phnom Da is by boat from Takeo town through flooded rice paddies—a surreal journey through a landscape that hasn't changed in centuries. In the dry season, travel by road through Angkor Borei. Arrange transport from Takeo town ($15–25 round trip by tuk-tuk).
Angkor Borei Archaeological Museum
The small town of Angkor Borei was once a thriving capital of the Funan kingdom. Today, its archaeological museum houses a collection of artifacts spanning nearly two millennia, many excavated from the surrounding area with assistance from the University of Hawaii.
Museum highlights:
- Pre-Angkorian Sculptures: Stone carvings of Vishnu, Buddha, and Shiva dating to the 5th–7th centuries—among the oldest Hindu-Buddhist art in Cambodia
- Pottery and Ceramics: Everyday objects from the Funan period showing trade connections with India, China, and the Roman Empire
- Gold Jewelry: Delicate gold artifacts found in burial sites, evidence of the wealth and sophistication of Funan society
- Inscriptions: Sanskrit and early Khmer inscriptions that are crucial to understanding the development of the Khmer writing system
Visiting Tips
The museum is small (allow 30–45 minutes) but fascinating. It's best combined with a visit to Phnom Da, just a few kilometers away. Entrance is $3 (combined with Phnom Da). A local guide can add immensely to the experience—ask at the museum entrance ($5–10).
Tonle Bati Lake & Temples
Tonle Bati is the most accessible of Takeo's attractions, located just 33 kilometers south of Phnom Penh on National Road 2. The site combines two ancient temples with a picturesque lake that is a favorite weekend picnic spot for Phnom Penh families.
Two temples in one visit:
- Ta Prohm (not to be confused with Siem Reap's Ta Prohm): A 12th-century Angkorian temple built by King Jayavarman VII. Compact but beautifully preserved, with intricate bas-reliefs depicting scenes from the Reamker (Khmer Ramayana) and daily life
- Yeay Peau Temple: A smaller, laterite temple nearby with a local legend about a woman named Peau who built the temple overnight. The site has a mystical atmosphere and fewer visitors
The Lake: After temple-hopping, cool off at Tonle Bati lake. Elevated wooden platforms with hammocks extend over the water, and food vendors serve grilled chicken, sticky rice, and fresh fruit. It's a quintessentially Cambodian leisure experience.
Phnom Chisor
Phnom Chisor is an 11th-century hilltop temple built during the reign of King Suryavarman I. Reaching it requires climbing approximately 400 steep laterite steps, but the reward is one of Cambodia's most spectacular panoramic views combined with an atmospheric Angkorian sanctuary.
Timing Matters
Avoid climbing at midday—the exposed steps become extremely hot and there is limited shade. Early morning (before 9 AM) or late afternoon (after 3:30 PM) are ideal. The late afternoon light makes for the best photography.
Ta Prohm of Tonle Bati
Not to be confused with the famous tree-covered Ta Prohm in Siem Reap, the Ta Prohm at Tonle Bati is a lesser-known but equally rewarding 12th-century Angkorian temple. Built by Jayavarman VII, the same king who constructed Angkor Thom and the Bayon, this compact temple showcases the late Angkorian Buddhist style.
What makes it special:
- Intact Bas-Reliefs: Detailed carvings along the interior walls depict scenes from the Reamker, Buddhist legends, and everyday Khmer life—market scenes, fishing boats, and childbirth
- Intimate Scale: Unlike the sprawling temples of Angkor, Tonle Bati's Ta Prohm is compact enough to explore thoroughly in 30–45 minutes
- Living Temple: Local monks maintain an active pagoda within the compound, and you may witness ceremonies or receive a traditional blessing
- Few Tourists: Even on weekends when the lake is busy, the temple rarely sees more than a handful of foreign visitors
Practical Information
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